From the Smoke That Thunders to Hwange: A Journey Through Zimbabwe's Beating Heart

We went to celebrate our 20th anniversary — but also to reconnect with what drew us to this work in the first place: curiosity, learning, and a love of sharing Africa's most extraordinary places. Over the course of a week, we visited lodges we know and love, explored new ones, and soaked up the details that don't always make it into brochures.

Of course, everyone's experience will be different. But this is what our trip looked like — and why we'd do it again in a heartbeat.

There's something about arriving in Zimbabwe that makes you feel instantly at home. As we exited Victoria Falls Airport, we were met not just by sunshine, but by the joyful rhythm of a traditional dance group — something of a Vic Falls tradition. It's bold, visceral, and proudly African, and it sets the tone perfectly. Have a few dollars ready for a tip or a photo — and trust us, you'll want layers. That first blast of dry heat is real.

Our lodge for the first night was Masuwe Lodge, just a 10-minute drive from town but set within its own private wilderness area. The welcome here was equally memorable. As we pulled in, impala and kudu flitted through the trees. Then came the team — singing, smiling, and holding out cold drinks. The warmth wasn't just from the weather.

Cassius, our host, was everything you hope for after a travel day: relaxed, attentive, and generous with both stories and practical info. He had us checked in quickly so we could unwind. And what a place to do it.

Masuwe strikes a lovely balance — you're close enough to Vic Falls to do all the activities, but removed enough to feel like your safari has already started. That afternoon, we took full advantage: a long poolside lounge, antelope skipping through the bush below our deck, and golden hour drinks on the lookout as elephants emerged from the trees to drink at the waterhole.

Most of us settled into one of Masuwe's Wilderness Tents — thatched canvas chalets tucked under trees with generous ensuite bathrooms built with local stone. Each tent had its own private deck with cosy chairs and a front-row seat to whatever might wander past in the bush (we saw antelope and baboons, but elephants have been known to make an appearance too).

Then there were Simon and Mike — who, thanks to an administrative stroke of luck (or fate?), landed in the Hide-Away Tent. Designed with honeymooners in mind, this tent is nearly double the size of the Wilderness Tents, with a spacious deck and outdoor bathtub. The rest of us might have teased them mercilessly — but we were also a little jealous.

April to June is high water season, when Mosi-oa-Tunya (Victoria Falls) is at its most powerful — and most dramatic. But this also means the dense spray can obscure the view from many ground-level viewpoints. The best way to grasp the full scale of the 1.7 km-wide curtain of water is from the air. A scenic helicopter or microlight flight reveals the thunderous Zambezi as it plunges into the gorge, tracing the river's winding path and offering a stunning aerial perspective of the Falls and surrounding landscape.

And that's exactly what our two directors, Onne and Simon, did — taking Nicky, Rufus and Siviwe along for the ride. There are several helicopter companies offering scenic flights over falls, and MJ Air is a firm favourite. Reliable and always professional, with safety as top priority. The rest of us took the quieter route, soaking up the morning stillness at Masuwe, coffee in hand, already nostalgic for the place before we'd even left.

After a heartfelt breakfast send-off from the Masuwe team (complete with song and dance), we headed into Zambezi National Park, bound for something even more remote. The drive was a scenic safari in itself — elephants browsing in the bush, impala darting across the road, and a pause beneath ancient baobabs that seemed to hold a thousand stories in their gnarled branches.

At the edge of the river, we boarded a small pontoon for the crossing to Chundu Island, a private paradise floating just off the mainland. Waiting on the other side was Dardley — grinning, warm, and ready to welcome us in true Zimbabwean style. That hospitality would become the hallmark of our stay.

We each checked into our River View Suites — spacious, serene, and designed to melt the boundary between indoors and out. These thatched havens have open-plan bathrooms, outdoor showers, and wide decks with comfy loungers and daybeds, all facing the Zambezi. From the moment you open your curtains in the morning to when you lie in bed at night, the river is always with you — shifting, shimmering, alive with birds and light.

Lunch was served on the pool deck, with nyala grazing nearby. The beauty of Chundu is that it gives you space to choose your pace. Some of us jumped straight into activities — fishing, a guided island walk, and a sunset cruise. Others (guilty!) simply stretched out on a daybed and watched the light change on the water. As Dardley said, you haven't really experienced sunset until you've watched it disappear behind the Zambezi. He was right.

That night, the Chundu team treated us to a private celebration dinner on the deck — long table, candlelight, laughter echoing across the island. We officially marked our 20th anniversary with a heartfelt poem written and read aloud by our director, in true Dutch tradition. It was a moment of gratitude: for the extraordinary people we get to work with, for our guests who trust us with their adventures, for the wild beauty of Africa, and for the Zambezi — always flowing, always reminding us of what matters.

We left Chundu Island after an early breakfast, waving goodbye to the team who had made it so hard to leave. But the day ahead was packed, and we were about to get a taste of some of the top luxury stays along the Zambezi River.

Travelling by boat and game vehicle, we visited several of the top riverfront lodges in the Zambezi National Park area — the kind of places guests dream about when picturing a luxury Victoria Falls safari. Think private plunge pools overlooking the water, elegant dining beneath the stars, and wildlife on your doorstep. These stops gave us valuable firsthand insight into what each property offers, so we can better match each traveller's wishlist with the right experience.

By mid-morning, we were reunited with Bees, our guide and driver from Wild Horizons, who deserves his own shout-out. Bees didn't just get us from A to B — he kept us hydrated with icy drinks (Zambezi beer, anyone?), always arrived with a smile, and made sure we were exactly where we needed to be, exactly when we needed to be there. With calm precision and warm good humour, he made the logistics feel effortless — and that's no small feat when you're coordinating a moving safari convoy across Zimbabwe.

Behind the scenes, another star made it all possible: the ever-competent Sihle from Wild Horizons, who pulled the logistical strings with grace and professionalism. From transfers to timing, she ensured everything ran like clockwork. We couldn't have asked for a smoother experience — or a more capable team.

Next stop: Victoria Falls. Even before we reached the entrance, we could hear the roar. The Falls were in full flood — and we mean full! From the first viewpoint, where the river begins to tumble, the sheer force and noise were staggering. It's hard to put into words what it's like to witness something so vast and visceral. Livingstone's words still ring true:

"Scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight."

Thoroughly soaked and hearts thoroughly stirred, we made our way to Camp West, the more intimate sister property to The Elephant Camp. It's a long-time favourite of ours for good reason: think private suites with plunge pools, sweeping views of the bush, and the mist from the Falls rising in the distance like a message from the gods.

Waiting to welcome us were the loveliest, kindest couple — Gloria and Tinashe — whose warmth instantly made us feel at home. Alongside them, Moses, the General Manager, had gone to great lengths to make sure every detail was just right. That genuine hospitality, paired with the comfort and character of the camp itself, made our stay feel especially meaningful.

Lunch was hands-on and delicious — pizza from the outdoor oven, made to order with our own toppings. Afterwards, it was time to cool off in our plunge pools and soak up the serenity. There's something surreal about floating in silence, watching the vapour from Victoria Falls curl into the blue sky just beyond the horizon.

Then came the showstopper: sundowners on the edge of Batoka Gorge. This is an experience you do not want to miss. Gin bar, cocktails, canapés — all laid out beside one of the most breathtaking views we've ever seen. Below, the Zambezi raged 120 metres down through the gorge; above, the sky lit up in streaks of gold and fire. It's an exclusive treat for guests of The Elephant Camp, and it's unforgettable.

Back at camp, dinner was preceded by drinks around the firepit — a gentle wind, the hush of the bush, and the occasional burst of laughter as we reflected on the day. This was one of those evenings where everything feels just right: the company, the setting, the quiet magic of the African night.

We began the day with breakfast at one of Vic Falls' most iconic dining spots — The Lookout Café. Suspended 120 metres above the Zambezi River and clinging to the edge of the Batoka Gorge, it's hard to say what's more memorable: the breakfast or the view. With the Victoria Falls Bridge as your backdrop and the thundering rapids far below, it's a must-visit — no arguments here.

From there, our ever-reliable guide Bees took us on a property-hopping drive through Victoria Falls town. We saw a real cross-section: from charming boutique guesthouses and mid-range hotels decked with contemporary African art, to stately colonial-style homes with manicured lawns where one half expects a croquet match to break out. For travellers of all budgets and styles, there's something here. Let us know what you're after, and we'll recommend the best fit.

Next came a midday experience we're still talking about: the Wild Horizons Lunch Cruise on the Zambezi. Picture this: delicious plated courses served with crisp white wine as hippos snort nearby and palm-lined riverbanks drift by. We leaned back in our wicker chairs, bellies full, and let the warm breeze, birdsong, and low grumble of hippo lull us into a very happy place.

That calm, however, was short-lived — because evening brought the high-energy spectacle of The Boma – Dinner & Drum Show. It's impossible to overstate the sensory impact: dancers stomping in traditional dress, flames leaping from the open fire pit where meats sizzle, and the deep thump of drums that gets under your skin. You don't sit back and watch — you help yourself to everything from warthog to mopane worms (yes, we tried them… yes, we got the certificates), and soon enough, you're part of the rhythm too. Whether you fancy yourself a performer or not, you'll be handed a drum — and by the end, you'll be playing along. It's wild, immersive, and undeniably fun.

We were joined by Anald, Head of Sales and Marketing for Africa Albida Tourism — a wonderful gentleman whose passion and commitment to Vic Falls shine through in every conversation. Truly, the destination couldn't ask for a better ambassador — or a more gracious host.

We left Victoria Falls behind and made our way to Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe's flagship safari destination. Two hours on the road, a stop for soft serve (obligatory), and we arrived at Hwange Safari Lodge — our base for the next two nights.

If it's elephants you're after, you've come to the right place. The lodge overlooks a busy waterhole that acts like a magnet for wildlife — we saw herds of elephants almost on arrival, both from the lawn and from the raised viewing hide. No game drive required (though we did those too).

True to Zimbabwean form, every staff member we passed — from housekeepers to gardeners — greeted us with genuine warmth and those dazzling smiles the country is famous for. You feel welcome here in the truest sense.

We had lunch outside in the dappled shade and noticed something worth mentioning: lots of families, both local and from neighbouring countries. That says something. Southern Africans are safari-savvy. We grew up bundling into Land Rovers with our cousins and camping in national parks. We know what matters: solid wildlife sightings, comfort without fuss, good food, and value. Hwange Safari Lodge delivers on all counts.

No private plunge pools here — and honestly, we didn't miss them. There's a lawn with a front-row seat to the action, and elephants just meters away. Impala grazed peacefully, zebra strolled past, and that night, we fell asleep to the unmistakable roar of lions somewhere out in the dark. Magic.

This was a day of inspiration and impact — the kind of travel experience that reminds you why we do what we do.

We split into two groups. While our African Safari Specialists visited a selection of lodges in the Hwange area, the rest of the team joined a birding safari with local guides. (Side note: guiding three of South Africa's top Kruger guides around Hwange? No pressure! But the Hwange team nailed it.)

For our property inspections, we handpicked camps that cater to a wide range of travellers — from top-end tented camps on private concessions inside Hwange, to treehouse-style chalets with quirky charm ideal for families, and down-to-earth, eco-friendly lodges that deliver excellent wildlife viewing and heartfelt hospitality.

Meanwhile, back at Hwange Safari Lodge, we reconvened for lunch. Some of us visited the Painted Dog Conservation Centre, which left a lasting impression. Their work — rescuing injured wild dogs, running anti-poaching patrols, and educating local communities — is both urgent and hopeful.

Others took it easy, beer in hand, watching ellies at the waterhole. And just when we thought the day couldn't get better, James, the warm and thoughtful lodge manager, surprised us with celebratory sundowners by the waterhole to mark our company's 20th anniversary — a gesture that meant a great deal.

A special shoutout also goes to Faith Mwale, the lodge's sales manager, who arranged our stay with efficiency, flexibility, and grace. Faith was a true asset throughout — accommodating, attentive, and a big part of what made our Hwange experience so smooth.

As the sun dipped and the bush fell quiet, the moment turned reflective. Travel like this — where nature, conservation, people, and purpose intersect — stays with you long after you've gone home.

We ended the day with dinner and full hearts.

After one last breakfast, Bees met us for the drive back to Victoria Falls town. With some time to spare, we picked up a few last souvenirs, each one a reminder of the trip that was.

Then, it was off to the airport — hearts full, cameras fuller.

As we waited to board, we reflected on why Victoria Falls and Hwange were the perfect choice to celebrate 20 years of African travel. These places — wild, welcoming, full of energy and soul — captured the essence of what we've always tried to offer our guests: life-changing travel, expert-guided safaris, and the kind of connections that last long after the journey ends.

What started as a small, heartfelt dream has grown into two decades of deep passion, unwavering purpose, and a shared love for Africa's wildest corners. This trip reminded us why we do what we do: not just for the wildlife or the landscapes (though those were unforgettable), but for the people, the stories, the impact, and the joy of experiencing it all together.

Here's to the next chapter — and the many adventures still to come.